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star anise

Have you used star anise in your cooking before? Not sure? If you’ve ever used Chinese 5-spice, then you’ve used star anise. And if you’ve ever sipped on Pernod, Galliano, or Sambucca, then you’ve tasted star anise.

I am going to tell you more about star anise than you may want to know – hang in there – there is an fantastic recipe using it that follows.

As you might have guessed, even before you saw the photo above, star anise is star-shaped. It is a dark brown pod that contains a small seed in each of its eight segments. Native to China, star anise comes from a small evergreen tree.

The Illicium parviflorum is a small, attractive evergreen tree that can be limbed to keep a small tree form or even used as a hedge. The foliage and stems have a delightful odor that reminds some people of root beer – with hints of licorice. The evergreen tree is native to China and Vietnam. Small white, pink, and purple flowers turn into the fruit (star-shaped seed pods) which are harvested just before ripening and sun-dried. It is a neat and clean tree that attracts birds. The tree is listed as hardy only to zone 8, needing moist but well-drained soil.

Hey, I live in zone 8B!  That’s the same as zone 8 right?  I learned all that online HERE, and once I read it, I ordered an Illicium parviflorum for my yard. I’ll update you when it arrives and is planted.

The flavor of star anise is slightly more bitter than that of regular anise seed. Asian cooks use star anise to give a licorice flavor to savory dishes, particularly those with pork and poultry. It’s available whole or ground and is an essential ingredient in Chinese five-spice powder.

It is also used to produce Pernod, Galliano, and Sambucca, and even plays a big part in the production of Tamiflu.

The reason for the sudden extreme interest in star anise is the result of a succulent recipe from Chef John Ash.  Chef Ash was the guest teacher at Les Gourmettes this past week and he made the absolute easiest and most wonderful poached chicken. We then used that chicken to make slider-sized sandwiches and a soup. I’m going to give you his recipe (slightly revised) for the poached chicken today. His sandwich recipe tomorrow, which is seriously to die for, just ask my neighborhood Bunco ladies who ate them up last night! Then, my own soup recipe using the chicken and the stock it produces. Lastly, one final recipe using the remaining chicken.

You are going to want to make this, so go get yourself a couple of chickens!  And while you’re at the store, here is what you’ll need for not only the poached chicken but also for tomorrow’s sandwiches.

  • Two young chickens (preferably organic)
  • 1 package/bottle star anise (any spice aisle, but the best price is at an Asian market)
  • 2 bunches green onions
  • 4 ounces fresh ginger root
  • 1 package pretzel rolls (Costco has then!) or potato rolls (slider size)
  • 1 bunch watercress
  • 4 large onions
  • golden raisins (optional)

Pantry items

  • sugar
  • salt and pepper
  • balsamic vinegar (preferably white, but regular is fine)
  • olive oil and/or butter
  • garlic

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October 25, 2012   1 Comment

drought

What a lovely sentiment about having a lovely day. Seems like a nice way to begin today’s post.

On to the matters at hand…

Aside from when we’ve been out of town and I haven’t had a kitchen to cook in, I am in the middle of the longest span of time that I have not cooked a meal.

Four of the last 8 days we were dining out and the other 4 days, we were eating leftovers. Quite honestly, I have not felt like cooking. Yes, it happens to me too.

One of those “nights out” was Sunday night when Connor, my dad, Dave, and I went to Noca for the sold-out “Fried Chicken Throw Down” between Noca and FnB.

Boy, did we enjoy some amazing fried chicken! At the time we did not know which chicken was cooked by which chef.

It has since been revealed that the crunchy fried chicken on the far side of the plate with the “hot sides” of tomato gravy served with mashed potatoes, haricots vert, and a honey-butter biscuit, belonged to Noca.

On the near side is FnB’s crispy buttermilk-brined fried chicken with the “cold sides” of pickled corn on the cob niblet, kale slaw, and a baking powder biscuit ladled with creamy giblet gravy.

Both were exceptional, and next to the fried chicken itself, the best thing on the plate was that honey-butter biscuit!

Here is how Dave, my dad, and I voted.

The three of us preferred the chicken with cold sides (FnB).

Connor, on the other hand, voted for the chicken with hot sides (Noca). The winner was posted on Facebook on Monday and later that day, the event was written about on the Chow Bella blog. Read all about it HERE.

Believe it or not, Noca won by 1 (ONE!) vote.

Curse you, Connor, you made the difference in the end result. Solid proof that every vote counts!!  This seems like the perfect opportunity to remind you to vote, two weeks from today, on Tuesday, November 6th!!!

OK, let me get back on topic … the drought…

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October 23, 2012   1 Comment

Happy Birthday, Julia

American legend, Julia Child, would have turned 100 today. Julia died two days shy of her 92nd birthday in 2004.

Photo by Hans Namuth
Gelatin silver print, 1977
National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

In 2001, Julia Child donated the kitchen from her Cambridge, Massachusetts home to the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History, in Washington, D.C.  It includes the cabinets, appliances, cookbooks, pegboard, kitchen table, and hundreds of her kitchen utensils and gadgets.

Julia’s turquoise kitchen had been on display from 2002 until this past January.  The National Museum of American History will temporarily reopen the exhibit today through September 3, 2012, in honor of her birthday. It will be open again permanently in November 2012 and will anchor an expanded food exhibit.

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Additionally, 100 restaurant chefs across the country have been firing up their ovens all week to honor Julia’s amazing culinary legacy. Four of our own Valley chefs are participating. CLICK HERE to read about some of their fond and funny memories of Julia and then drool over their menus, especially the one at Quiessence at the Farm at South Mountain. The tribute dinner there has been organized and will be hosted by our Phoenix Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier International, the chapter of that I am a founding member.  So sorry to be missing it!

As I’ve mentioned before, I too, had the pleasure of meeting and later working with the incomparable Mrs. Child.

1994 in San Francisco

2001 in Minneapolis

Believe me, I know how very blessed I am to have had that honor.

Here are two photos from the IACP Culinary Concerts from when I was the producer.

Julia Child, Emeril Lagasse, Shirley Corriher, and Martin Yan on stage in Providence, Rhode Island on March 29, 2000

In this photo, the chefs were choosing ingredients for a signature dish they were going to make together. Martin had pulled out a bunch of cilantro and handed it to Emeril. Emeril showed it to Julia and she matter-of-factly said, “I don’t like cilantro.” Emeril said, “No cilantro, then!” as he tossed it back into the basket in front of Martin. Martin made some comment and tossed the cilantro into the audience and obviously, it struck Emeril’s funny bone!

Martin Yan, Mary Sue Milliken, Emeril Lagasse, Jacques Pépin, and Susan Feniger in San Diego on April 18, 2002

Julia was scheduled to perform with these great chefs, but wound up with a bout of bronchitis. Here the chefs are making a birthday cake (a few months early) in her honor.

I am also privileged to own an autographed first edition of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, an amazing treasure. 

I have brought along the new Julia Child biography, Bob Spitz’s “Dearie:  The Remarkable Life of Julia Child” to read on my Alaskan trip. Can’t wait to dive into it.

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August 15, 2012   1 Comment

Sriracha Powder

Pure brilliance!!! That is what I think of the idea of making Sriracha Powder from the wildly popular Sriracha sauce. The brilliant idea and recipe are courtesy of Chef Dale Talde of Talde in Brooklyn, New York.

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Chef Talde uses the powder to make his signature Sri-rancha, a Sriracha-flavored homemade ranch dressing. In my book, turning the sauce into a powder is brilliant for two reasons. First, it intensifies the delicious Sriracha flavor. Secondly, it prevents the sauce from watering down dressings, such as the ever-popular Sriracha Mayo. So many wonderful uses come to mind – including sprinkling it atop deviled eggs and potato salad or stirring it into soups and stir-fry.

Plus when you run out of Sriracha, which I do more often than I’d like to admit, you can have the powder on hand as a quick substitute until you get to the market again.

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August 14, 2012   2 Comments

Ras el hanout

How’s that for a post title? Have you ever heard of ras el hanout? I had not until Joanne Weir was teaching at Barbara Fenzl’s Les Gourmettes Cooking School last month. Here is what Wikipedia has to say (which is pretty much exactly what Joanne told us about this spice blend too):

“Ras el hanout is a popular Moroccan blend of spices that is used across North Africa. The name means “head of the shop” in Arabic and refers to a mixture of the best spices a seller has to offer.

There is no definitive set combination of spices that makes up Ras el hanout. Each shop, company, or person would have their own secret combination containing over a dozen spices. Typically they would include cardamom, clove, cinnamon, ground chili peppers, coriander, cumin, nutmeg, peppercorn, and turmeric.

Some recipes include over one hundred ingredients, some rarely found in Western food, such as ash berries, chufa, Grains of Paradise, orris root, Monk’s pepper, cubebs, or dried rosebud. Usually all ingredients are toasted and then ground up together. Individual recipes are often improvised. Ras el hanout is used in almost every kind of food, sometimes rubbed on meat and stirred into rice.”

You can make your own blend using THIS RECIPE from Epicurious. Or you can go online and purchase from many different sources, including HERE from Williams-Sonoma.

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April 22, 2012   2 Comments

mousse

Today I give to you the recipe for the rich, smooth, and creamy chicken liver mousse that Jacques demonstrated on the Jacques Pépin Cooks for Eight taping this past Sunday.  Here is a little of what he has to say about it.

“Unlike most mousses and pâtes, which become watery and grainy when frozen, this one freezes perfectly. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and then aluminum foil before freezing. Small soufflé dishes are ideal for freezing because they can be defrosted in a couple of hours. If you use a large dish, you’ll need to defrost it slowly under refrigeration for 24 hours before serving.”

So, of course, I followed the master’s advice and made six little ramekins to freeze for later entertaining purposes. The larger dish that you’ll see decorated, is one that Jacques made on set Sunday which I brought home to finish. It was served last evening as an appetizer at my father’s birthday dinner. Happy Birthday, Dad! xoxo

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April 19, 2012   No Comments

dinner for 10

Terry, Barbara, and Sloane

All-day long while Jacques, Barbara, Henry (executive producer), Kim, Sloane, Terry, and I were busy at the taping – others were slaving away as well. My husband, Dave, was working like a dog on taxes (it was April 15 after all, but the “real” April 15th was still two days away if you know what I mean). Henry’s wife, Jesse, was working like crazy because they have two young sons… and we all know what hard work that is! And Kim’s husband, Paul, was at home, cooking up a storm!

So after the show had wrapped and we all made ourselves as presentable as possible in 10 minutes… we rejoined at Paul and Kim’s gorgeous home, for an intimate dinner for ten.

Henry and Jesse

We started out with wine by the fireplace on their “back forty”.  Kim brought out Baguette Slices topped with Wild Mushrooms, Comté, and Roquefort along with a terrine of Jacques’ Chicken Liver Mousse brought over from the set.

Linda, Jacques, Dave, and Henry

The conversation and the wine easily flowed as we recounted the day’s events and as Jacques entertained us with a choice few of his many wonderful stories. Then we headed inside to Kim’s stunning dining room table, which I should have taken a picture of, darn it.

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April 18, 2012   1 Comment

Cooks for Eight

The BIG event this past weekend was the taping of … Jacques Pépin Cooks for Eight.

Barbara Fenzl brought legendary chef, author, and educator Jacques Pépin to Arizona to tape a very special cooking show that will first air on June 4 at 7:00 pm and will serve as the main pledge-drive program for our local PBS station, KAET – Channel 8.

The title has a double meaning; Jacques and Barbara not only cooked together for channel Eight, in addition, but the menu was also set like a meal for Eight people.

But the taping of the show wasn’t the only big thing that happened over the weekend… there was a KAET fundraising dinner the evening before, Saturday night, in the gorgeous East Room at Vincent’s on Camelback. Here is a look a the menu. The artwork was provided by the guest of honor.

Barbara gave the most lovely and loving introduction for Jacques to the 100+ guests.  I think that was my favorite part of the entire evening.  She spoke so beautifully and eloquently.  I am always proud to call her my friend and my mentor, but especially at that moment.

Chef Vincent Guerithault and his staff put together an intimate and delicious evening.

The two Frenchmen have been friends since the mid 1970’s, when Vincent first came to the United States. It was a spectacular evening and each guest received Jacques’ most recent cookbook, Essential Pépin.  Then at the end of the night, Jacques signed and personalized every single book to each guest – and as he was doing so, a photo was taken, as a memento of the evening for each person, as well.

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April 17, 2012   7 Comments

the company you keep

Linda and Jacques in Kim and Paul Howard’s backyard on April 15, 2012

On Saturday, I mentioned that I was working on something very BIG over the weekend. These pictures are a hint of just WHO and WHAT the BIG deal was all about.

If you do not already recognize the handsome gentleman in these photos, he is none other than world-renowned chef, Jacques Pépin.  And if you don’t already know who Jacques Pépin is… please either read THIS or THIS or THIS, or just Google “Jacques Pépin” and read up. I promise you will be very impressed with this amazing man.

Kim Howard, Barbara Fenzl, and Jacques in my backyard on October 26, 2008 to celebrate Les Gourmettes’ 25 Anniversary.

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April 16, 2012   2 Comments

wicked granola

Yesterday I told you that I found the recipe I posted on Pinterest and that it was pinned by my friend, Gwen. Coincidentally, while I was whipping up that batch of Lemon Rolls, Gwen emailed me.  When I responded, I let her know I was making the rolls she had pinned and that she NEEDED – NO, not just needed, but actually owed it to me, to come by and take some of them off my hands.  She refused! Imagine that! Refusing free Meyer Lemon Rolls…OK, she had a good excuse as to why she could not, but still…

So today, in retaliation, I’ve decided to make one of Gwen’s most famous recipes… a version of her granola. Yes, Gwen is famous for her granola, you can check out her blog post HERE to find out why and see Gwen’s recipe.  But the real honest-to-goodness reason Gwen is famous for her granola is that it is so darn good.

Below is my version of Gwen’s Granola with a few tweaks of my own.  I’ve taken the name the of the Good Witch of the North, from Broadway’s Wicked, which also happens to be a combination of our two names – Gwen and Linda… and named it…

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March 27, 2012   3 Comments